Hirobun in Kibune (Kyoto)

Personal experience

One weekday in mid-July, we went to Hirobun, an establishment located in Kibune – a corner of the mountains nicknamed the “remote salon of Kyoto” or the “haven of peace” – to experience nagashi-somen served on a terrace above the river (kawadoko).

Kibune is just over an hour by train from downtown Kyoto. We first took the Keihan line from central Kyoto to the terminus, Demachiyanagi station. From there, we took the Eizan line train to Kibuneguchi station. Demachiyanagi station, on the Eizan line, is the departure point for the train to Kibuneguchi, just before the Kurama terminus. The journey to Kibuneguchi takes around 30 minutes. Be careful not to get on the wrong train, however, as two lines depart from this station: one to Kurama (the one to take) and the other to Yase-Hieizan-guchi. We took the 9:00 train and arrived in Kibuneguchi at 9:28. Leaving the station, there’s a bus stop directly opposite. From there, you can catch a bus to Kibune. These buses are usually coordinated with train schedules, so you don’t have to wait long after arrival. The bus journey takes around 10 minutes. It’s also possible to make the journey on foot (approx. 30 minutes), but the road is narrow, winding and shared with cars. It is therefore not ideal for pedestrians, and we recommend taking the bus instead (200 yen).

After getting off at the “Kibune” terminus, it’s another 10-minute walk to the restaurant. As you walk along, you’ll see several kawadoko establishments (meals served on a platform above the river) on your right. Among them, Hirobun is one of the restaurants furthest upstream. There are several kawadoko restaurants in Kibune, but Hirobun is the only one to offer the “nagashi-somen” experience (cold noodles sliding down a water channel). The other establishments serve mainly kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine).

We’ve visited Hirobun several times in the past, but recently the number of tourists has increased considerably. Last year, for example, we visited Kibune in the afternoon, and by the time we arrived, all the distribution tickets had been used up, so we couldn’t eat there. Depending on the time of day, it’s not uncommon to have to wait for several hours. That’s why, this time, we chose to go in the morning. The restaurant opens at 11am, but it’s said that waiting tickets (seiriken) start being distributed a little earlier. We therefore planned to arrive in Kibune around 10am, so as to be in front of the restaurant on time.

As planned, after taking the train, then the bus, then walking, we arrived just before 10am. In front of the restaurant, a dozen people were already waiting. At around 10am, a member of staff came out to organize the queues. Each newcomer was then directed to the queue as they arrived. There were about 15 people ahead of us, so we took our place in line. At around 10.50am, official check-in began with a waitress assessing the size and number of groups already in the queue. Then at 11am, reception opened and as we passed through, we were asked again how many people were in our group, and then paid the full amount. In exchange, we received a fan with our waiting number inscribed on it, and were guided to the platform area above the river (kawadoko). At this point, it’s also possible to buy drinks such as Ramune beer or lemonade, available next to the counter, to enjoy with the somen. As we were at the head of the queue, once the restaurant opened at 11 a.m., we were able to take part in the second session. By 11.20am, we were settled in and ready for the nagashi-somen experience.

There are three somen channels (or tracks) in the plant. This means that three groups can be served at the same time. The number of people per group varies, but in general, 8 to 12 people can be served in each rotation. Each group has an assigned channel, and a staff member tells you which one is yours. You only need to catch the noodles that go down your channel. For example, if you’re a group of three, you’ll share the same channel, and each will catch the somen in turn, as they arrive at regular intervals. Just across the square, you have a direct view of a small waterfall, which created an exceptional and very refreshing atmosphere. The atmosphere is really superb, but as you have to stay focused to catch the noodles, you may not really have time to enjoy the scenery calmly… At the end of the experience, pink noodles are tossed into the canal: this is the signal for the end. It’s time to taste the traditional dessert that was placed in your place: warabi-mochi. The whole experience lasts around 10-15 minutes.

For our daughter, it was her very first experience of nagashi-somen, and she clearly enjoyed it – she was delighted. She’d been wanting to try it for a while, so we were delighted to be able to make it happen. Kibune is a long way from downtown Kyoto, but it’s a popular spot with the Japanese, not least for its mysterious atmosphere and shrine, as well as its famous terraces above the river (kawadoko) in summer. As Kyoto is located in a basin, its summers are notoriously stifling. In Kibune, however, the average temperature is around 10°C lower than in central Kyoto, making it an ideal place to escape the heat. Although access requires a little time, if your schedule permits, we highly recommend the typically Japanese experience of nagashi-somen – noodles gliding in a stream of cool water – in the heart of this lush natural setting.